OTP

25 Jan

As the Food Turns

in Fried Chicken, OTP, Restaurants, Southern

“Just seeing if I missed something.” [Gentleman spinning the Lazy Susan]

“Did you have a biscuit [yeast roll] with butter and honey?” [Gentleman’s friend across the Susan]

“No.”

“Then you missed something.”

And you’ve missed something, my friends, if you haven’t sat at one of Buckner’s large family-style tables and witnessed the best Southern food to grace a Lazy Susan (in our humble–and right–opinion). The folks at Buckner’s Family Restaurant have been blessing the South Metro and its visitors with comfort food since 1980; and John and I have enjoyed the fruits of the Buckner family’s labors since we were barely old enough to see the food spinning above our heads (literally, y’all).

It’s all about the fried chicken. The crispy exterior is both salty and sweet. The meat is juicy and tender. Fried up in peanut oil to a perfect golden brown, this chicken is enough to make us thank the heavens that we weren’t born with nut allergies. We’ve sunk our teeth into many a bird at many a soul food establishment–standouts include Social Circle’s Blue Willow Inn, Atlanta’s The Colonnade and Mary Mac’s Tea Room, Savannah’s Mrs. Wilkes’ Dining Room and Montgomery’s Martin’s Restaurant; as well as childhood visits (which we can nostalgically say were much better than recent visits) to North Georgia’s Dillard House and Smith House–but what sets Buckner’s apart is consistency. We have never been disappointed. We’ve also never eaten just one piece of chicken around that table.

If you’re going to eat that much fried chicken (and you will), rest assured that the vegetables are tasty, too. Don’t worry your pretty little head about what else is in the sides (like fatback or sugar). If you’ve committed to eating around a Lazy Susan, you left modesty at the door. I don’t like to “miss something,” so there’s generally a rainbow nation on my plate, including but not limited to green beans, creamed corn, stewed tomatoes, lima beans and coleslaw. I’ll also taste the other protein of the day whether it’s country ham, BBQ pork or Brunswick stew. The sweet cornbread is good, but one of my favorite things in the world is that soft yeast roll with butter and a squeeze from the honey bear. And for dessert, don’t miss the peach cobbler. It’s set down with everything else that arrives on a metal cart at the beginning of your meal, so have it first if that’s your inclination. Just don’t hide it at the end so that you can get a piping hot cobbler instead of your original, still warm. We won’t judge you, but the baked fruit gods will.

A few atmospheric notes: It’s in the country, so it’s country from the kind people serving you to the ones eating around the table with you to the butter churn sitting on a shelf above your head. Don’t be shy. There’s nothing like a moving circle of good food to make friends out of just about anyone. Make no mistake–you’re in God’s country–but no matter what your religious persuasion, you can get down to some good Gospel music next door. Besides, you’ll need something to do while your soul-satisfying meal settles.

Location

Buckner’s Family Restaurant
1168 Bucksnort Rd
Jackson, GA 30233
Phone: (770)775-6150
17 Aug

Bagel Pilgrimage

in Alpharetta, Bagels, Diner, OTP, Restaurants

John’s family lives in Cumming. We can say a number of things about the area, but we won’t. Because here’s the thing: Atlanta, it’s not. We love our city and its myriad foodstuffs, clearly, so when we venture up 400N it’s not without reason that we’re a bit skeptical. But, behold! There is hope in the form of perfect bagels, halo-like if you will, at BB’s Bagels and Diner.

Thanks to The Blissful Glutton’s piece in Creative Loafing, we headed up Georgia’s finest toll road having done our homework and ready for a little taste of NYC. BB’s delivered. My bagel, the size of a small dinner plate, was fresh and just-right-chewy. BB’s doesn’t mess around; they hand-roll and kettle-boil their bagels every morning. They also serve up breakfast and lunch diner classics like the juicy roast beef sandwich John chose, otherwise known as the “Balboa.” The meat was moist and flavorful, like it had just been sliced off a roast hot out of the oven. Topped with melted provolone and sandwiched between a garlic hard roll, it doesn’t get much better. I was tempted by the beautiful Reuben delivered to the table next to us, but had to stave off that temptation until next time. There was a black and white cookie to be had, after all.

I don’t know why these New Yorkers decided to drop a diner in Alpharetta, Georgia, but I do know that we’re thankful they did. I’m convinced that there’s nowhere else in the state that can serve me a better marble-rye (or any type) bagel and black and white cookie (the Seinfeld joke isn’t lost on us, folks). And if anyone in the Cumming area gives them guff, they’d better check BB’s Commandments first, particularly number 14. 

Location

BB's Bronx Bagels
770 McFarland Parkway
Alpharetta, GA 30004
Phone: (770)475-1818
03 Aug

Thanksgiving in July

in Advocacy, Food Event, OTP

Shouldn’t every season have its own Thanksgiving? This summer, I’ve given thanks for blueberries and melons, arugula and cucumbers, corn and peppers…and for an incredible event called the Southern Chefs Potluck, held last month under the pavilion of The Inn at Serenbe. Imagine an idyllic summer day in the country, complete with the requisite afternoon downpour. Then imagine that day filled with 5 or 6 farm tables brimming with dishes from the region’s best chefs – Anne Quattrano, Hugh Acheson, Billy Allin, Steven Satterfield, Joe Truex, Kevin Gillespie, Linton Hopkins, Shaun Doty, Ford Fry, Marie Nygren, Dan Latham, Hilary White and Michel Nischan – accompaniments to White Oak Pastures beef prepared by Jim-n-Nick’s BBQ and fried chicken legs from The Farmhouse at Serenbe. Oh, and another four farm tables of dessert potluck. Last, whistles were wet with Farmhouse mint tea and “Shine On Punch” (yes, that kind of ‘shine) mixed by Greg Best of Holeman & Finch.

I couldn’t help but think of it as a southern summer Thanksgiving. And it was an event where the giving was just as important as the receiving. Hosted by Serenbe, the Southern Foodways Alliance Skillet Brigade, and Georgia Organics, the Potluck benefited Wholesome Wave Georgia, a non-profit founded to encourage and support increased production, availability and access to fresh, healthy and affordable locally grown food for all communities. I was really inspired by Wholesome Wave’s Double Value Coupon program – it doubles the value of Federal Food Stamps when used at participating farmers markets nationwide. Especially in the middle of such a bountiful and beautifully prepared harvest, I was moved by the important work Wholesome Wave is doing to make local food an accessible option for everyone.

You'll notice a few things in the photos: 1) I couldn't say no to a dish at this potluck (favorites included Ford Fry's gooey mac & cheese, Kevin Gillespie's creamy potato salad inspired by his granny, Steven Satterfield's bright succotash, Anne Quattrano's fried okra, Marie Nygren's peppery fried chicken and Jim-n-Nick's juicy sliders made with White Oak Pastures beef). 2) I LOVE dessert. It is a beautiful thing.

Recipe