Food Event

18 Apr

The Real Magical Animals

in Atlanta, Buckhead, Cheese, Food Event, Shops

I am a firm believer in the powers of the pig. It truly is a wonderful, magical animal that can give us ham, pork chops, bacon, pork belly…not to mention the endless creations featuring pig as star, both good (Morelli’s Maple Bacon Brittle ice cream) and not-so-good (Bacon Air). BUT, what can’t that hog give us? The answer is what defines for me why Homer Simpson is wrong (just this once) when it comes to the real magical animals. Pigs can’t give us cheese. And you know I’m not talking about head cheese.

Holeman & Finch lunch with Liz ThorpeWhy all this ruminating about swine and cheese? Last week I had the pleasure of attending a special luncheon at Holeman & Finch featuring discussion with Liz Thorpe. As Vice President of Murray’s Cheese Shop and author of the recently published book The Cheese Chronicles, Liz knows a thing or two about the luxurious product that can only come from our friends the cows, goats, and sheep. The whole pig thing came about when the cheeses at the luncheon arrived, plated beautifully, on a pig-shaped cheese board. Par for the course in Holeman & Finch, which prides itself on the ingenious preparation of pig in many delectable forms, but it was enough to remind me why some animals are more equal than others.

On to the good stuff! At the luncheon, I enjoyed Sweet Grass Dairy Chevre, Burrata di Andria, Westfield Farm Capri, La Serena, and Nettle Meadow Kunik. Accompanied by beet chutney, fig preserves, spiced pecans, fresh strawberries, and H&F bread, as well as a perfectly dressed salad of spring lettuces, ramps, radishes, and pickled mushrooms, I couldn’t have dreamed up a better lunch. Paired with a crisp white wine and finished with pears and sorghum syrup, I pretty much decided I could live on bread, wine, cheese, nuts, veggies, and fruit alone. Ok, it would be several days at least before I missed the might of meat.

After much sampling and re-sampling (a tough job, I know), my favorite cheese on the board was the Nettle Meadow Kunik–a goat’s milk cheese made into a triple crème through the introduction of Jersey cow cream. As Murray’s declares on their website, “Brilliant!” It’s buttery and tangy, mild enough to please anyone but flavorful enough to bore no one. It is dense, creamy, and crave-worthy. Additionally, it was interesting to read on Murray’s site that the cheese-maker feeds her animals only organically-grown grain and hay, as well as a variety of herbs. Everything they’re doing at Nettle Meadow is working, in delicious fashion.

The Burrata di Andria came in a very close second-favorite. The fact that if not otherwise in polite company I would have picked up the bowl and drank its leftover contents…perhaps indicates a tie. This cheese is so fresh that you’ve got to eat it within two weeks which, given its enrobing, creamy, salty-sweet goodness, shouldn’t be a problem. It’s similar to mozzarella di bufala, which I fell in love with while studying abroad in Italy, eating fresh mozzarella from buffalos whose fields I had moments before walked by. For me, burrata has all of the fresh creaminess of mozzarella with a little more flavor. Flavor that makes you want to slurp it out of a bowl. 

I always enjoy goat cheeses and found the tart, fresh offerings from Sweet Grass and Westfield Farm to be prime examples of flavorful chevre. Liz mentioned to us that we goat cheese lovers are lucky to be in Georgia, where dairies like Sweet Grass can benefit from a climate that fosters near year-round grass-feeding. It’s because of this diet that the Sweet Grass goats produce a slightly more yellow-hued chevre than their Massachusetts counterparts. I thought they were equally delicious, but am so proud to have Sweet Grass as a local go-to.

Finally, I least enjoyed the La Serena, but my personal tastes don’t generally lean toward cheeses that are described as “barny.” I know that some folks seek out “zippy” cheeses like this and, unlike my experiences with full-on stinky cheeses like Stilton, I thought the Serena to be palatable. Its gooey core was especially balanced when I paired it with the earthy beet chutney. I also appreciated the ancient technique of using dried wild thistle to set the milk–as with any food or drink, a little knowledge goes a long way toward true enjoyment.

The Cheese Chronicles by Liz ThorpeI’m excited to learn a lot more by reading Liz’s book, because the cows, goats, and sheep are only the beginning (or middle?) in great cheese stories. Field to farm to table couldn’t be more important than it is in the world of cheese-making and there couldn’t be more incredible stories than those of the artisans who bring us this most magical product.

Check it: Now is the perfect time of year to put together a beautiful cheese board (be it pig-shaped or no)! Not only do cheeses have terroir, but they have seasons, too–in fact, goats and sheep tend to mate in the fall and stop producing milk during the winter. That means that beginning in April is the best time for fresh goat and sheep’s milk cheeses. Cows produce milk year-round, but the early spring and fall milk, when cows are eating grasses and flowers, brings the most yummy cheeses. 

03 Apr

Attention, Market Shoppers!

in Advocacy, Atlanta, Buckhead, Farmers Market, Food Event

Peachtree Road Farmers Market veggiesThis time next week (and the week after that, and the week after that…right up ‘til the end of the year), our pantry will be chock full of farmers market goodies! Saturday, April 9 marks the opening of our favorite outdoor market – the Peachtree Road Farmers Market, held each Saturday from April through December outside Buckhead’s Cathedral of St. Philip. It’s the largest producer-only market in the state (meaning that the folks selling you stuff actually produced that stuff), with over 65 vendors this year. You’ll find fruits, veggies, eggs, organic meats, baked goods, cheese, yogurt, pops, ice cream, Savannah-caught shrimp and all kinds of basking-in-the-sun Saturday market enjoyment. PRFM also hosts weekly Chef Demos, seasonal events like the Slow Food Ice Cream Social, Halloween Parade, and Holiday Artist Market, plus special events and live music. I love Peachtree Road Farmers Market so much that I write their blog. Check it out for opening day details – and get excited for all things good, fresh food!

Image courtesy of Peachtree Road Farmers Market

Location

Peachtree Road Farmers Market at Cathedral of St. Philip
2744 Peachtree Road, NW
Atlanta, GA 30305
24 Sep

Food Fight: Play Fair

in Advocacy, Atlanta, Food Event, Food Politics

Tomorrow, Slow Food Atlanta is taking part in a National Day of Action, raising awareness for Slow Food USA’s Time for Lunch campaign to bring real food back into school lunchrooms. Below is a letter to the editor that I wrote this week, explaining why I’m participating tomorrow. The day begins at 8:00 a.m. working in the gardens of Coan Middle School & Edgewood Community Learning Garden, followed by music, cooking demos, sign making, a parade and bring-your-own picnic lunch at Piedmont Park. Hope to see you for what promises to be a beautiful Saturday!   

To the Editor:

From starting a school garden, to restocking a food bank, to lending a hand during harvest, thousands of folks are coming together this weekend to break ground on local projects and help create a world where food is good for you, good for the grower and good for the planet. At the end of the day, we’ll break bread to celebrate our efforts.  This Saturday, September 25, Slow Food Atlanta is joining hundreds of other chapters around the country for Slow Food USA’s first-ever “Dig In!” Together, we’ll be sending the message that it is time to change our food system for the better! Together, we’re creating a food system that is good, clean and fair.

I’m supporting Atlanta’s “Dig In!” because it’s time to get real about the food we’re feeding our kids at school. In the classroom, they’re learning about literature, math, science, world history and more. But in the lunchroom, they’re learning about high sodium, fat and poor health choices. It’s time to create a food system that works. It’s time to get back to the basics of whole, fresh and fair. It’s what our kids deserve.

Part of Slow Food USA’s Time for Lunch campaign to bring real food back into school lunchrooms, Atlanta’s “Dig In!” will engage the community through volunteer garden workdays at Coan Middle School and Edgewood Community Learning Garden, followed by a gathering and picnic lunch at Piedmont Park. Park activities will include sign making, a parade and kids cooking demonstrations. Won’t you join me and thousands of others this Saturday to celebrate good food for all?

Sincerely,
Jennifer Maley
Atlanta, GA

15 Aug

Good Things Come to Foodies Who Wait

in Atlanta, Food Event, Restaurants, Street Food, Westside

There are a few things that you have to understand if you’re going to enjoy food events like last week’s Attack of the Killer Tomato Festival or this week’s To Live and Dine in Atlanta. Wednesday’s To Live and Dine event, put on by The Atlantan magazine to celebrate their annual restaurant issue and to benefit Georgia Organics, was an evening of sultry summer fun worthy of the usual food fest suspects:

1) Lines. It should come as no surprise that you’re not the only one interested in sampling the creative small plates of the top chefs in the city. Nor should it shock you that you’re not the only one whose thirst begs to be quenched by a carefully crafted cocktail from the best mixologists to pick up a shaker and a stirrer.

2) These things take time. If you want a hot-off-the pan duck-beef burger graciously topped with a delicate quail egg from Canoe, please get in aforementioned line and experience what it feels like to look forward to something for a minute or two.

3) Do not, under any circumstances, try to count calories or any such nonsense. The most glorious part of these events is the chance to try many of the best restaurants on offer, all in one evening. This night, there were over 20 chefs from restaurants including Bistro Niko, BLT Steak, Bocado, Canoe, Craft, Empire State South (opening Aug. 30, can’t wait!), Miller Union, Pacci, Park 75, and Valenza, just to name a few…Desserts were in force courtesy of The Hungry Peach, Bakeshop, and Antico Pizza (the Food We’ve Eaten team should not be presented with a plateful of canoli, but we somehow carried on).

Actually, we had a ball. I have to say that my favorite part was the presence of food trucks (The Good Food Truck, Westside Creamery, and Yumbii Truck), waiting outside the entrance, beckoning us to look up into their little windows and place an order for something magical (like a Good Food Truck hot dog, hugged by a french toast bun, dressed with apple slaw, mustard and maple syrup, of course). And the next logical step is a cocktail, right? Icy concoctions were on hand thanks to of One Flew South’s Jerry Slater and JCT. Kitchen’s Lara Creasy.

So, what about those lines, with their waits and caloric impossibilities? My recommendation? Take them with a grain of salt. Or two.

Check the photo gallery for our favorites from To Live and Dine:

10 Aug

This (past) week in food

in Atlanta, Cooking, Food Event, Midtown, Recipe, Restaurants, Virginia Willis, Westside

We’ve been busy, y’all. In this post:

  • Ice Cream Sandwiches at Miller Union
  • Brownies Thanks to my HomeGirl
  • Attack of the Killer Tomato Fest

You Had Me at Ice Cream: Only at lunchtime does Miller Union offer up ice cream sandwiches. And, while I give due respect to savory sandwiches and quite enjoyed my creamy farm egg salad & watercress between soft white bread, there is a special place in my heart and stomach for a good ice cream sandwich. I mean, seriously, cookies and ice cream in one portable package? I love you, inventor of the ice cream sandwich (one small step for street food, one giant leap for deliciousness). Miller Union takes the humble frozen treat to another level, with flavors like Earl Grey Tea and Mexican Chocolate. My Mom and I shared a classic Cherry sandwich – you’ll see in the photo that they’ll cut it in half for you. I probably could have eaten a plateful of these if not for following my Mom’s example of moderation (it didn’t hurt that half-size was pretty cute). Thin, chocolate-y cookie with a thick slab of cherry ice cream between, like a frozen chocolate covered cherry. Yum. 

Square Goods: Sometimes I forget about brownies. When I’m called to make a dessert for a dinner party or potluck, I generally pick a recipe that I haven’t made before, something exotic and challenging (exactly what one shouldn’t do, by the way – if you want a recipe for anxiety, follow this rule). I think that I do this because, if I’m going to invest time and energy into something, I like using that time to try something new. All that’s to say, this summer has kicked my butt and I’m super busy. So, when it came time to bake something for a potluck, I remembered the crowd-pleasing, multiple-serving dessert, brownies. No cookie scooping or cake icing, just simple, glorious squares of goodness. Next time I forget about brownies, I’ll try to remember just how tasty that batter is, too…But I still couldn’t resist trying a new recipe, so I looked to Virginia Willis for inspiration. The resulting Georgia Pecan Brownies were out of this world. Fair warning, 12 ounces of chocolate takes a minute or two to finely chop, but the tired arm is totally worth it when you take a bite into these dense chocolate pecan squares. We love the added depth that sea salt brings to chocolate and will definitely be making these again. It’s hard to make a brownie that’s both chewy and moist, but also has that nice cakey top. This one’s a keeper.  

Anne Quattrano's Killer Tomato shortbread cookiesWhen Tomatoes Attack: This weekend, we were very excited to attend the Attack of the Killer Tomato Festival, benefiting Georgia Organics. We even hydrated for the occasion. There’s nothing else to prepare you for an afternoon of tomatoes and booze, after all. Angie Mosier was MC for the festivities and The Spazmatics rocked out with their socks out. The stage was set to celebrate summer’s most beguiling fruit.

Our favorites from the region’s top chefs and mixologists included: The Golden Ticket cocktail from Miles Macquerrie (Leon’s Full Service) – Oronoco Rum, Sungold Tomato Jam, Pineapple, Lime, Cynar, Black Pepper Syrup, and one big ol’ ice cube – a sweet but spicy drink perfect for GA hotness; the Electric Boogaloo from Cara Ludino (Miller Union) – daiquiri-like with fresh ground pepper; Hugh Acheson’s (Athens’ Five & Ten and soon-to-be-Atlanta’s Empire State South) Tomatoes with Pickled Shrimp, Field Peas and Boiled Dressing; Carvel Grant Gould’s (Canoe) Warm Goat Cheese Cheesecake with Bacon Crust and Tomato Fig Jam; Chris Hastings’ (Birmingham’s Hot and Hot Fish Club) Tomato Salad with Fresh Corn, Field Peas, Fried Okra, Bacon & Chive Aioli; Linton Hopkins’ (Restaurant Eugene, Holeman & Finch Public House) Heirloom Tomato Corn Dogs with Brandywine Ketchup; Gerry Klaskala’s (Aria) Grilled Cheese Keaster with Roof Top Dried Tomatoes, Bacon & Chipotle Dipping Sauce; Eddie Hernandez’s (Taqueria del Sol) Tomato Cruda in Habanero Vinaigarette on a Tostada topped with Southwestern Crema and Caviar; Joe Truex’s (Watershed) Tomato Pie – cheddar tart with cherry tomato center; and Mike Lata’s (Charleston’s FIG) Heirloom Tomato Tarte Tatin (warm tomato compote over thin, delicate pastry) with Fromage Blanc. For sweet somethings, we appreciated the creativity of Ford Fry’s (JCT. Kitchen & Bar) Killer Tomato Jelly Donuts and Kevin Gillespie’s (Woodfire Grill) Tomato Ice Cream Sandwiches. But our favorite tomato dessert was definitely Keira Moritz’s (Pacci) mini ice cream cones – flavors changed on the half hour and we liked them so much that we made it over to sample three – basil with a hint of tomato, peach tomato with a yummy candied heirloom on top, and strawberry tomato. It was pretty serendipitous when The Spazmatics started playing “Just Can’t Get Enough…”

Judges Andrew Knowlton (Bon Appetit magazine), Kate Krader (Food & Wine magazine) and Carolyn O’Neil (local dietician and author) had their work cut out for them…for a summary of the cocktail winners, check out this nice post at Food & Wine; and for food winners, check out their other post! I knew I waited a day to write about this thing because of more than just fullness…I had a plan, see…

03 Aug

Thanksgiving in July

in Advocacy, Food Event, OTP

Shouldn’t every season have its own Thanksgiving? This summer, I’ve given thanks for blueberries and melons, arugula and cucumbers, corn and peppers…and for an incredible event called the Southern Chefs Potluck, held last month under the pavilion of The Inn at Serenbe. Imagine an idyllic summer day in the country, complete with the requisite afternoon downpour. Then imagine that day filled with 5 or 6 farm tables brimming with dishes from the region’s best chefs – Anne Quattrano, Hugh Acheson, Billy Allin, Steven Satterfield, Joe Truex, Kevin Gillespie, Linton Hopkins, Shaun Doty, Ford Fry, Marie Nygren, Dan Latham, Hilary White and Michel Nischan – accompaniments to White Oak Pastures beef prepared by Jim-n-Nick’s BBQ and fried chicken legs from The Farmhouse at Serenbe. Oh, and another four farm tables of dessert potluck. Last, whistles were wet with Farmhouse mint tea and “Shine On Punch” (yes, that kind of ‘shine) mixed by Greg Best of Holeman & Finch.

I couldn’t help but think of it as a southern summer Thanksgiving. And it was an event where the giving was just as important as the receiving. Hosted by Serenbe, the Southern Foodways Alliance Skillet Brigade, and Georgia Organics, the Potluck benefited Wholesome Wave Georgia, a non-profit founded to encourage and support increased production, availability and access to fresh, healthy and affordable locally grown food for all communities. I was really inspired by Wholesome Wave’s Double Value Coupon program – it doubles the value of Federal Food Stamps when used at participating farmers markets nationwide. Especially in the middle of such a bountiful and beautifully prepared harvest, I was moved by the important work Wholesome Wave is doing to make local food an accessible option for everyone.

You'll notice a few things in the photos: 1) I couldn't say no to a dish at this potluck (favorites included Ford Fry's gooey mac & cheese, Kevin Gillespie's creamy potato salad inspired by his granny, Steven Satterfield's bright succotash, Anne Quattrano's fried okra, Marie Nygren's peppery fried chicken and Jim-n-Nick's juicy sliders made with White Oak Pastures beef). 2) I LOVE dessert. It is a beautiful thing.

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